I'm a sucker for a puppy face
There are many street dogs running through the cobblestone alleyways of Bhaktapur. They sunbathe on the steps of grand pagodas, rummage through trash piles, and expertly maneuver through traffic. Humans don’t pay them much attention, and it seems the same is true in reverse.
On the first day of Tihar, the opposite is true. Early in the morning, the dogs have a little extra bounce in their step. Everyone who passes by seems to be smiling at them. They are getting an extra scratch behind the ears. This is because it is Kukur Puja (or dog worshiping day). Relevant, because some of the first words I learned to say in Nepali were “Kukur” for “dog” and “Kukur Ko Batcha” for “puppy.”
A puppy starts teething with a shoelace
As an American, and specifically one that lives in Los Angeles, I am used to dogs being treated like gods. There are luxury retailers catering to rich clientele who adorn their proud pooches with diamond collars and green tea dog treats. It’s a cliché that I would fight, except that my own two pups happen to be extremely spoiled. Sassy and Stanley are well-loved to say the least. And yes, I’ve bought them clothing.
In Nepal, however, dogs are still dogs. Some are pets, but most are street dogs that happen to be friendly neighbors. For instance, the Unatti Girls care for a dog named Lucie. She walks them to school, greets them at the gate when they return, and announces any surprise visitors. She recently had a puppy named Leslie who now has 13 girls fawning over her every move. These dogs aren’t officially pets, but they’ve been adopted.
Yes. This was a real puppy that really made that face.
Next to the Unatti Home, a street dog also recently had puppies. In the most non-politically-correct way, the girls have dubbed them “brownie” and “blackie” (based on the color of each of their coats). At the Pagoda Guest House where Patty and I currently reside, the owners have two dogs whom we adore. Because our room is on the same floor as their personal residence, we hang with the dogs (Munu and Moti) a bunch.
This means that in only a few short weeks in Nepal, we’ve become close to seven dogs. Not surprising, in my opinion, considering the depth with which I love the little devils. Moti even jumped onto my lap while the fireworks were going off because she knew I was a sucker and would give her all the love and protection her little doggie heart desired.
No dog bed? No problem! How about a spare time?
You can imagine our enthusiasm for a holiday devoted to giving these dogs nothing but love. The “Tika” that we were so excited to receive when we first arrived was now reserved solely for the pooches. The flower necklaces called “mala” were briefly draped around each dog’s neck until they managed to shake or pull them off (except Moti who proudly displayed hers for two days). All around Bhaktapur, the dogs we live with harmoniously were now elevated to the level my dogs have always known they were at… teeny tiny creatures full of godliness.
Best. Holiday. Ever.
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Janelle K. Eagle is infamous for always having her hands tied up in multiple projects simultaneously. She's directed a lot of theater, worked on some films, and raised lots of money for non-profits. She travels all the time and loves to share her videos, photography and writing via this blog. 
