A Review| Bhaktapur, Nepal

Teenages play with cellphones while sitting in Durbar Square

By far, my favorite place to travel in Nepal is the small fifedom of Bhaktapur. This ancient and walled town is just 20 km away from Kathmandu, but lacks the congestion and pollution. Instead, you get Durbar Square, cobblestone streets, a great view of the mountains on a clear day, and no cars.

The reason that there are no cars is that the small town is actually closed to outside traffic. This means that the only methods of transportation are walking and motorbike. It is very small and very walkable. You will sometimes see a taxi or tractor driving through, but the only traffic you’ll experience is foot traffic. Considering that most roads in Nepal are shared by cars, buses, motorbikes, dogs, cows, and pedestrians… the lack of automobiles is a rare treat- as is the resulting lighter pollution.

One of the famous landmarks in Bhaktapur is the highest Pagoda in the world (Nyatapola Temple)- with five individual tiers. Durbar Square and the palaces and temples in the area are also ancient and beautiful (bring a guide book or pay one of the children asking to be your tour guide some rupees to give you the details).

The same buildings have been in the area for centuries and even if you buy property or want to build onto a house, you have to do so in the ancient style that keeps the town feeling unified in its appreciation of history. This renders much of the architecture to be unfriendly towards the physically disabled, but nonetheless breathtaking in its stone and wood carving work- much of which is done openly as you walk through the small storefronts.

Patty and I sit in Bhaktapur with Durbar Square in the background

I loved Bhaktapur because of the people that live there. More than 50% of the people living there are Newari and come from ancient family lines. They speak a different language and by default come with a culture in which they encourage you to slow down and eat a meal with your neighbor. In fact, they LOVE feeding each other… and you. They seem to show love by forcing others to eat yet another buffalo momo (dumpling) or another small glass of rhaxsi (rice wine).

In theory, there isn’t much to do in Bhaktapur- but it’s near everywhere you want to be. Nearby Ngarkot is a great view for a sunrise, and the town is the same distance from the airport as downtown Kathmandu and offers much of the same goods you’d want to buy. The difference is, you’ll be more comfortable in Bhaktapur.

Rather than staying in Thamel (Kathmandu) or Lazimpat, get a room in a guest house in Bhaktapur. Our home away from home was the Pagoda Guest House and cost a whopping $9/night and also had a rooftop cafe that had the most gorgeous view of the Pagoda and surrounding hills and mountains that you could imagine. The staff was amazing and really became our second family while we stayed in town for a couple weeks (shout out to Sharmila and Robindra!).

I never expected to feel as comfortable or welcome as I did in Bhaktapur, Nepal. I know from the many other travelers we met on the road that this was not a unique experience. Stop by this enchanted town if you’re ever in the area. It’s well worth the detour.

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2. Mornings in Nepal
3. Leaving Nepal
4. While Traveling In… Nepal
5. A Review| Phokara, Nepal