Gorgeous lighting in an alleyway in Florence
In 2001, I went on a high school grad trip to Europe. We spent quite a bit of time traveling throughout Italy, and it was at that time that I dubbed Florence my favorite city on the planet. I admit, however, that I had not traveled too extensively at that point, so the title may have been given prematurely.
Upon returning to Florence this go-round, I was hoping not to have my memory disappoint me. Cautiously stepping off the two hour train from Milan’s Malpensa Airport, I was elated to find that I remembered the city. The cobblestone streets, the river Arno, the Duomo towering over the cityscape. I breathed a sigh of relief when it was confirmed that Florence was as beautiful as I remembered it.
Arriving at the start of the off-season, it is a different experience than the usual summer holiday. The streets are mostly empty. The lines at Uffizzi Gallery are under 45 minutes. There are a limited number of street vendors barking for your attention. It’s less crowded, but it’s also cold and rainy. If you don’t mind walking through puddles, wearing layers, and carrying an umbrella… the beginning of November is actually a perfect time to visit Florence. Think New York Fall weather set in an ancient European landscape.
One thing that has drastically changed since the last time I was in Florence is the exchange rate from Dollar to Euro. As of this week, the Dollar vs. Euro has hit an all-time low and any purchase now costs at least 1 1/2 times the price being asked in Euros. The .80 it costs to use the “water closet” at landmarks means you are spending $1.50 to use the loo. The normal “cheap finds” of the city are just plain expensive, especially when you consider that we’ve just arrived from India- where 5 days (all inclusive) cost us about the equivalent of 2 days of entertainment in Florence (not including lodging).
The view of Florence from the top of the Duomo
The good news is, it’s still worth it to spend the money. I am happy we are only here for two full days, however, because it forces us to choose the sites we want to see with a particular prioritization. We chose the “biggies:” Ponte Vecchio Bridge, Galleria d’Accademia (home of Michelango’s David), the Duomo, the Uffizi Gallery, Santa Croce Church, and The Santa Maria Novella Church. By far, the climb up the Dome of the Duomo was a highlight for me as the structure was closed last time I visited. 463 steps later, I didn’t feel so bad about all the pasta we’ve eaten since arriving.
Because I am not an Art History major and we have no personal tour guide, we rely on the printed guides we’ve pre-purchased, the ones we downloaded on our Amazon Kindle, and the Audio systems that some of the landmarks provide for an extra charge (of course). It can be daunting to pass yet another frescoe or sculpture and attempt to differentiate between the other 100 you’ve seen for the day. Your knees begin to yell at you when you keep walking through museum halls that look the same.
You can't help buy smile wide in Florence
To avoid artistic fatigue, I recommend doing some research ahead of time to find stories associated with particular pieces that intrigue you. For instance, “Holy Family” (at the Uffizi Gallery) is a painting done by Michelangelo that features Mary, Joseph, and Jesus- but for the first time in artistic history, the child is not seated in Mary’s lap or held in her arms. Breaking tradition intrigues me, so ahead of time, I knew what to look for in the sea of artwork. I could de-prioritize other halls that lacked any draw for me.
Continuing through Europe, we’ll soon run out of any interest in churches. There are millions of them, and though each has a sensational and intriguing history, prioritization is necessary. This is especially true when the average cost of one entry ticket to an Italian monument is 5-10 Euros ($8-$16).
Though there will be many more foreign cities in my future, I will still love Florence. Every angle of every alley way is art. The history and architecture are captivating. The residents enjoy us being here as much as they enjoy exhibiting their national pride. The food is mouth-watering and the fashion is unmatched. I can’t think of anything that’s not to love- except the cost. Grand scheme of my traveling life, I definitely still rank Florence, Italy as one of my world favorites.
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Janelle K. Eagle is infamous for always having her hands tied up in multiple projects simultaneously. She's directed a lot of theater, worked on some films, and raised lots of money for non-profits. She travels all the time and loves to share her videos, photography and writing via this blog. 
