Journey with Janelle » Asia

Funny Signs

Janelle K. Eagle — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 22:01:52 +0000

As I traveled the world this past Winter, I was often amused at how cultural differences also contribute to some HILARIOUS moments where posted signs mean different things to different cultures. I just re-discovered some of my pictures from the trip and thought I’d share:

As a member of the LGBT community, I found it shocking when I saw this sign… and then remembered that my own Irish Aunt calls cigarettes by the same name. Can’t believe the proud display!

I’m still not sure what “Chulo” is in Nepali… but I do know that if a Mexican traveler were in town, they’d get a kick out of this.

What cracked me up about this sign was the lack of certainty… PROBABLY?

No related posts.

VIDEO: India’s Golden Triangle

Janelle K. Eagle — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 01:18:26 +0000

I have written quite a bit on this website about my travels in India and around the world. After coming back from my recent journey, I had a huge amount of film and moments captured that I wanted to share. My video editing skills have greatly improved… so now my readers get even better quality video of the journey!

Check out the latest:

Feel free to rate the video, add comments, and don’t forget to SUBSCRIBE to continue to get notified when new videos are posted!

Starting the Photo of the Week series!

Janelle K. Eagle — Tue, 19 Jan 2010 23:09:28 +0000

As I’ve traveled around the world, I’ve seen some amazing people and sites. I’d love to share them with you in a weekly series where I’ll feature a photo and share the story that went along with the capture!

To start it off, feast your eyes on this:

In the small fifedom of Bhaktapur, Nepal, there are two large festivals a year. At this particular festival, young girls dress in traditional Newari outfits and go from doorpost to doorpost singing and dancing. In return, they receive a few rupees that they can then use to buy chocolate or any other treat.

These young girls are in the town center awaiting sunset- when they can begin to sing and dance. One girl blows a bubble as a friend hangs by watching the hustle and bustle of festival preparations.

Photographically, I enjoy that the bubblegum girl is in focus while the rest of her environment seems to literally swirl around her. The candid capture of the innocent friendship of these young girls is touching.

Namaste

Janelle K. Eagle — Thu, 17 Dec 2009 04:16:00 +0000

It has been difficult to express to people how beautiful I think the country of Nepal is. The land and the beautiful people are indescribable to me. I’ve attempted to share with my words just how wonderful I think this magical place is, and though even this does not capture it- I want to share some of the best views.

I’ve created a new “Journey with Janelle” video- this one without words. Set to music that could easily be heard playing in the streets of Bhaktapur, these images were shot during October 2009 in multiple cities in Nepal.

I hope this video inspires you to pay attention to this exciting region of the world and to continue to stay involved with my own work in the region.

Namaste!

A Review| Phokara, Nepal

Janelle K. Eagle — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 11:00:00 +0000

Still Water at sunset on Phewa Lake in Phokara

Phokara is the Beach city of Nepal. Except the “beach” is actually the banks of the very small Phewa Lake. The energy and enthusiasm for tourists and relaxation, however is tangible and reminiscent of any California beachside community. Small shops with handpainted signs, every kind of restaurant you’d want, water sports, and paragliding.

Yes. Paragliding. This is the sport where you run off a hill with a parachute tied to your body and fly around with the birds for a bit before landing at the base of the hill. In Phokara, this sport is extremely popular and many different offices along the main walking drag will advertise packages. In each, you’ll be flying tandem with a professional who knows what he or she is doing- and in most cases is not Nepali, but an enthusiast from another country who came to Nepal because the paragliding options are spectacular near the Himalayas.

Ramesh Paraglides high above Phewa Lake in Phokara

Other extreme sports are also very popular- trekking, rafting, boating, etc. I recommend making arrangements through your guest house or hostel as they usually have a company that they trust and get special deals through. The prices are usually fixed, however, so the normal bartering skills you’ve developed will not apply here.

This small city is particularly great if you are a happy window shopper. The numerous stalls along the lakeside have some great artistry- tonka paintings, tibetan rugs, handmade paper goods, etc. Most shops are open late, so feel free to walk to dinner from your hostel and get a bit lost on your way back as you peruse the goods.

One of the most charming (and surprising) entertainment options in this small town is the evening music that is available. Cover bands belt out the latest tunes, karaoke bars crank out the drunken melodies, and independent artists and travelers host open mic nights in the lobbies of guest homes. Once again, walking down the street and simply finding the bar or spot that feels right is the way to go.

Fresh fruit for sale on the roadside in Phokara

If busy and congested Kathmandu seems overwhelming and you are looking for a great spot that feels like having a vacation within your vacation, Phokara is definitely the spot for you. We sat on the roof of our guest house one night, drinking a beer with our friend Ramesh, and remarked on just how quiet and peaceful the area really is.

Phokara is also fun to get to. Whether you board the pond-hopper plane that gets you there in 30 minutes or the train that can take you anywhere from 4-6 hours, you have gorgeous views the entire way. Relaxing and definitely affordable, Phokara is a great stop while traveling through Nepal.

A Review| Bhaktapur, Nepal

Janelle K. Eagle — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 10:53:00 +0000

Teenages play with cellphones while sitting in Durbar Square

By far, my favorite place to travel in Nepal is the small fifedom of Bhaktapur. This ancient and walled town is just 20 km away from Kathmandu, but lacks the congestion and pollution. Instead, you get Durbar Square, cobblestone streets, a great view of the mountains on a clear day, and no cars.

The reason that there are no cars is that the small town is actually closed to outside traffic. This means that the only methods of transportation are walking and motorbike. It is very small and very walkable. You will sometimes see a taxi or tractor driving through, but the only traffic you’ll experience is foot traffic. Considering that most roads in Nepal are shared by cars, buses, motorbikes, dogs, cows, and pedestrians… the lack of automobiles is a rare treat- as is the resulting lighter pollution.

One of the famous landmarks in Bhaktapur is the highest Pagoda in the world (Nyatapola Temple)- with five individual tiers. Durbar Square and the palaces and temples in the area are also ancient and beautiful (bring a guide book or pay one of the children asking to be your tour guide some rupees to give you the details).

The same buildings have been in the area for centuries and even if you buy property or want to build onto a house, you have to do so in the ancient style that keeps the town feeling unified in its appreciation of history. This renders much of the architecture to be unfriendly towards the physically disabled, but nonetheless breathtaking in its stone and wood carving work- much of which is done openly as you walk through the small storefronts.

Patty and I sit in Bhaktapur with Durbar Square in the background

I loved Bhaktapur because of the people that live there. More than 50% of the people living there are Newari and come from ancient family lines. They speak a different language and by default come with a culture in which they encourage you to slow down and eat a meal with your neighbor. In fact, they LOVE feeding each other… and you. They seem to show love by forcing others to eat yet another buffalo momo (dumpling) or another small glass of rhaxsi (rice wine).

In theory, there isn’t much to do in Bhaktapur- but it’s near everywhere you want to be. Nearby Ngarkot is a great view for a sunrise, and the town is the same distance from the airport as downtown Kathmandu and offers much of the same goods you’d want to buy. The difference is, you’ll be more comfortable in Bhaktapur.

Rather than staying in Thamel (Kathmandu) or Lazimpat, get a room in a guest house in Bhaktapur. Our home away from home was the Pagoda Guest House and cost a whopping $9/night and also had a rooftop cafe that had the most gorgeous view of the Pagoda and surrounding hills and mountains that you could imagine. The staff was amazing and really became our second family while we stayed in town for a couple weeks (shout out to Sharmila and Robindra!).

I never expected to feel as comfortable or welcome as I did in Bhaktapur, Nepal. I know from the many other travelers we met on the road that this was not a unique experience. Stop by this enchanted town if you’re ever in the area. It’s well worth the detour.

While Traveling In… India

Janelle K. Eagle — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 10:18:00 +0000

While Traveling in… India

There are a couple of things you should know…

1. At the airport, men will offer to help you with your bags. If you want the help, be prepared to pay for it. Make sure that you only let one man help you as multiple will try to get in on the action and get paid for it. If you can do it on your own, I recommend politely telling the men that you don’t need help.

2. Train stations are very overwhelming. Getting a guide to assist you with boarding the correct train is essential. There are usually tourist information desks that can offer you this essential guidance.

3. Always watch your bags, especially when it is crowded. Thievery and pick-pocketing is not only done, but is commonplace.

4. Tuk Tuks are convenient ways to get around. They say that when you want one, they are never there and that when you aren’t looking, there are more than enough. Be patient, you’ll find one, especially if you head towards a main street.

A cow passes by me in Delhi, India

5. Ask your hostel or hotel staff how much a tuk tuk ride should cost to get to a destination. When you find a tuk tuk, pre-determine your price. They will ask you for much higher than what it should cost- here is where bartering comes in (see #6).

6. Bartering is a very common practice. Assume that whatever price they offer you is twice what it should be. The best thing to do is verbalize that you know this is a bad price and to immediately walk way. They’ll call after you with a much lower price. Practice this skill- it’s worth all the money you’ll save! Note however that with the exchange rate, the difference of 100 rupees is less than $1.

7. If you ride in a tuk tuk and come to a stop while on your journey, you will be approached by children and families who will ask for money. If you need to decline, sternly say “Neem” (no) and “joe” (go) to tell them to leave. If they are persistent, ask your tuk tuk driver to assist you, and they will.

8. If possible, it is nice to find other young travelers to share costs with (tuk tuks, taxis, transportation). Hostels are a great place to connect with others who have similar traveling interests.

9. Never take out large amounts of money or cash in the view of other people. Familiarize yourself with the currency before hand so you know which colors to grab for to pay for items.

10. Drink as much water as possible, but make sure that it is filtered or bottled water. This is also relevant to ice or icecubes.

11. You don’t owe anybody anything- if a situation doesn’t feel right, remove yourself from it immediately. Always trust your instincts on this.

12. Emotionally, India can be a very difficult country to travel in. Remember that this country is beautiful, ancient and majestic… appreciate it for all it’s character and never disrespect the people that make such an amazing country worthy of your attention and love.

While Traveling In… Nepal

Janelle K. Eagle — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 08:20:00 +0000

Patty films while Nepalese schoolchildren look on

While Traveling in… Nepal

There are a couple of things you should know:

1. If you are white, you will be stared at. The people of Nepal are curious about you, so simply put your hands together and offer “Namaste” and a smile.

2. Any time you pull out a camera, others (especially children) will crowd around you to see your display screen. It’s a rare treat for them, share your images!

3. If you are approached by a child and asked to take their photo, note that they will probably follow up by asking you to give them a few rupees. They learn this at a very young age.

4. If a child asks you to buy them a book, say no. Unfortunately, they’ve struck up an agreement with the bookstore to sell it back and split the profits after you walk away. The same is true with mothers asking you to purchase evaporated milk.

5. Nepalese people take great pride in their language and will enjoy trying to teach you new words. Do your best to learn key phrases and you’ll make many a friend.

A disheveled transit vehicle in Nepal

6. As in most third world countries, it is important to drink only bottled water, eat only fruits with skin (i.e. an orange or banana), and make sure that milk is thoroughly boiled before you drink it.

7. Bartering is a very common practice. Assume that whatever price they offer you is twice what it should be. The best thing to do is verbalize that you know this is a bad price and to immediately walk way. They’ll call after you with a much lower price. Practice this skill- it’s worth all the money you’ll save!

8. At the airport, men will offer to help you with your bags. If you want the help, be prepared to pay for it. Make sure that you only let one man help you as multiple will try to get in on the action and get paid for it. If you can do it on your own, I recommend politely telling the men that you don’t need help.

Eating on the floor in Nepal

9. Ask your hostel or hotel staff how much a taxi ride should cost to get to a destination. When you find a taxi, pre-determine your price. They will ask you for much higher than what it should cost- here is where bartering comes in (see #7). Driving at night or during high traffic will cost you more.

10. Common dishes are comprised of lentils (dal) and rice (bhat). It is appropriate to eat with your right hand and no utensils. If you need one, ask for a fork. If eating at a restaurant, you’ll probably be provided one.

11. Nepali people are very calm and don’t rush like Westerners. It is common to hear them say “Bistari” (slow) and to encourage you to do the same. Embrace this ideology while traveling in Nepal and the experience will be well worth it.

My Top Picks for India

Janelle K. Eagle — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 05:49:00 +0000

The Taj Mahal

I’ve written quite a bit about how difficult it is to travel in India. There are many highlights, however- with two destinations standing out in particular.

The first and most obvious destination is the one that you come here for: The Taj Mahal. Built in honor of his life-long love who died while giving birth to their 14th child, the Taj is a testament to commitment and honor between a King and Queen.

What I found to be most fascinating about the structure is that it is composed of elements that come from all over the world. The white marble from Rajasthan was floated down the Yemena river. Semi precious stones were imported from as far away as Belgium and South Africa. Skilled workers (estimated at 20,000 men) spent 22 years building the structure.

My favorite fun fact about the building is that the 4 minarets that surround the tomb where the king and queen were buried are built at an angle. Each leans 2 degrees out and off vertical so that in case of an earthquake, they don’t fall into the tomb and instead fall outward into the vast open gardens surrounding the center structure.

A skilled artisan carves the same white marble used on the Taj Mahal

I highly recommend arriving on a Monday- as early as possible. Sunrise is suppose to be the most majestic time to arrive, but unless you are staying in town- this is difficult. We arrived at about 9:30am and didn’t feel that we missed anything. Note that there are multiple fees associated with the experience- 750 R to enter, 100 R for a tuk tuk to the front gate (worth it), and additional fees (500 R) for parking our taxi and 300 R for our tour guide. Not including taxi, this means each of us spent about US $35 on the experience.

Our tour guide also brought us to a marble manufacturer in Agra where we learned more about the process by which the stones are carved and embellished with the semi precious stones that make it so glamorous. The guide enjoys a commission from anything we purchase, of course, but the information and demonstration of skills is free and well worth the annoying sales pitch at the end.

The picturesque lotus temple is reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House

My other favorite destination in India is the Baha’i Lotus Temple in Delhi. Situated in South Delhi, the architecturally unusual structure is far removed from the hustle and bustle that surrounds it. The temple was constructed specifically to create a space where people from any religion could come together and pray. Just the idea is comforting, but physically experiencing being in a room full of diverse people and prayer is indescribable.

Acres of green grass and clear pools fill the surrounding land and shoes are left far outside the door. Before entering the prayer structure, a short speech is given by the young female staff that no photography or noise is allowed in the structure. You simply enter, find a seat, and pray silently. You stay as long as you desire. I chose to sit directly under the roof’s pinnacle- as if looking out from the center of the lotus. I closed my eyes and relaxed into prayer. I felt peace move over me as I let go of the tension that I’ve carried while traveling in this country. I emerged from the experience much calmer and more appreciative of my time in India.

One of many cheesy tourist pictures taken on the road

You don’t have to be a religious person to find the experience moving and memorable. The architecture itself is worth the visit- and the free entry is a welcome relief from repeated fees at other monuments in the country. Sitting quietly is also a rare treat in a compact and claustrophobic city. Visiting this space as my last stop before heading to the airport was a particularly wise decision as the normal stresses associated with travel seemed to de-escalate as I walked out of the Baha’i Lotus Temple.

Both the Taj Mahal and Lotus Temple are extravagant. Both are made of white marble. Both are unmatched around the world. If you are ever in North India- both are worth your time.

That one time in India

Janelle K. Eagle — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 05:37:00 +0000

The Golden Triangle is a very historical trifecta of landmarks that exist in India. Made up of Delhi in the North, Agra in the southeast and Jaipur in the southwest, these three destinations are each approximately 250 km apart from one another. Each destination is packed full of highlights and landmarks that are worthy of days of exploration. It is not uncommon to explore each of the three points on the Golden Triangle for at least a week.

Patty and I did the entire Triangle in 36 hours, thank you very much. And if you are ever considering doing something similar in the future, I am telling you right now… DON’T.

Let me explain.

To get from Delhi to Agra (home of the Taj Mahal), Patty and I decided to share a taxi with two lovely girls that we met at our hostel. The four of us packed into an air conditioned sedan and met our driver at 5:30 in the morning. After naps in the car, we arrived at the Taj close to four hours later. It was epic and monumental and everything you’d ever hope it would be (more on that by clicking HERE). While Agra Fort is another popular destination in the area, we knew that there was a larger one back in Delhi (the Red Fort), and that we had to get on the road.

Patty and I arranged for another private taxi to drive us the almost 5 or 6 hours it takes to get from Agra to Jaipur. In case you don’t have a calculator handy, that’s 11 hours in one day in a taxi on the crazy streets of India.

Standing in front of an absolutely stunning masterpiece

We had a very difficult time reaching our contact in Jaipur, so we just crossed our fingers that we’d make it into town and somehow the stars would align and we’d find him when we arrived. The good news is, we did find him after an extremely exhaustive attempt at using multiple cell phones and numerous numbers. We met Kaushl’s brother (remember him from THIS entry in Nepal?); his name is Dewang. He graciously met our taxi and drove us to his friends house.

Unfortunately that’s where things got a bit sour. The gentleman’s house that we went to was nowhere near the old city we were hoping to see. He spoke no English and was just plain awkward. At one point he literally attempted to convince us to fly off the roof with him. It wasn’t fun.

The next morning we decided we didn’t want to stay another night and risk continued discomfort in the city- so we decided to high-tail our butts back to Delhi. We didn’t want to spend another $100 on a taxi, so we had Dewang book us “sleeper tickets” on a train. Paying a little extra for a rush order, we found ourselves with about 4 hours to explore all of Jaipur. Impossible. We decided to focus on the most important part- the City Palace (which was gorgeous).

The lattice and pink architecture of Jaipur

After taking many a picture, Dewang escorted us to the Jaipur train station. If you’ve never experienced riding the trains in India, then you haven’t experienced India. Sprawling and massive and scary and full of noise, there was not a more overwhelming option for us to choose for the final leg of our whirlwind journey through the Golden Triangle. Mice ran at our feet, stinky men stared and invaded our space, and we just prayed we’d make it back alive.

Six grueling hours later, we rolled into Delhi station. There are three stations in Delhi, by the way. We had arrived at the one opposite the one we had told our taxi to meet us at. So we waited… By ourselves… At the Old Delhi train station. Rats. Bats. Men and women urinating right in front of us. What’s not to love?

How about the taxi ride back to the hostel? We had an extremely long drive (because we’d gone to the farthest possible station), and the van pickup almost ran out of gas. So we had to drive around looking for a fill-up. At 1am. The drivers are crazy, remember, so inevitably we hit a big bump and I went sailing up and cracked my head into the roof of the van.

At that point in the journey- I just lost it. I cried uncontrollably in a van while Patty attempted to comfort me and the driver and hostel staff person asked if I should be taken to the hospital. After Patty confirmed that I didn’t have a concussion, I just begged them to (safely) get us home.

Stepping foot into Nirvana Hostel was like coming home, after all. We marched right into our room, I crawled into the shower and just CLEANED myself. I believe Patty’s favorite quote that I sobbed from the shower was “I… just… like… need SO much soap.”

The good news is, that was the low point of the entire trip we’ve had abroad. It’s over and done with and we experienced it and learned from it. There will be more blogs about specific sites we enjoyed afterwards- because there were quite a few that are breathtaking.

The point of this particular entry is that adding haste into an already stressful travel journey between three cities in five days was not a good choice. I don’t know that I wanted much more time in India, at least not on this visit. But I do wish that I hadn’t rushed us so much. I do wish that I’d taken the time that India deserves.