Journey with Janelle » Nepal

Ngarkot Near Death Experience

Janelle K. Eagle — Thu, 06 Jan 2011 05:53:50 +0000

Winding down our time in Nepal, we had finished the majority of the work we had come to do and decided to ask our local host Ramesh to bring us to a site I’d heard so much about. Named Ngarkot, it’s a plateau surrounded by 360 degrees of panoramic views (read Himalaya heaven). Across the board, we’d been told it was not to miss. You have to go… and you have to go at sunrise. Mind you- I’m a notoriously late riser and Ramesh was picking us up at our guest house at 5am. I kept thinking “this better be worth it.”

Arriving right on schedule, Ramesh picked us up and drove to the top of the hill/mountain in darkness. The road was super windy and being that it was just after New Year’s and at a high elevation (7100 feet), it was extremely cold. We arrived just in time (approx 6:15 am) and ascended the stairwell while wrapped in yak wool, mittens, double socks, and hats. We were still freezing, but remained hopeful that the view was going to be worth the chills and missed sleep. We were encouraged simply by how pleasant and clean the air was at this particular elevation.

As the sun peaked its way through the clouds, our sleepy eyes opened to absolute magnificence. It was the most beautiful sunrise I’ve seen, I think. Ever. The Himalayas were on one side, the clouds and sun on the other behind a string of prayer flags. I had my camera. It was absolutely spectacular. We did some timelapse photography that I can’t wait to see. We watched the frost melt off the handrails. We stood in silence and simply looked.

Then, inspired by the photographic opportunities, my friend Noam and I decide to climb to the top of a viewing tower (for tourists) to get an unobstructed 360 degree view. It’s an old rickety tower, but everything in Nepal is unstable, so why not climb right? We get to the top of the tower and are gazing at the most gorgeous views we’ve probably ever seen. Noam actually utters the words “If I died right now, I could go peacefully knowing this is the last thing my eyes had seen.”

We pull out our cameras to take pics. First Noam takes a picture of me and then it’s my turn to take his. I grab his camera, look through the view finder at gorgeous views and suddenly, I fall HARD. I was completely confused. My foot had literally gone through a hole in the ground of the tower and I swear I saw my life flash before my very eyes. Everyone at the viewing spot looked up at this tower and can see my one leg dangling through. Noam is laughing because he feels awkward when there is conflict and everyone else is super quiet waiting to see my reaction.

I freeze there waiting to see if I can still feel my toes and after realizing that I can… I cry and laugh at the same time. I was in total shock that I was still alive, had actually fallen so hard, and that everyone was staring at me. Whether adrenaline or denial, I somehow refused to let it stop me and we progressed through our day (and now into Southeast Asia).

I wanted to share the masterpiece that lovely viewing tower left on my knee. I’ve never seen a more gentle transition from midnight blue to fuscia in my life. Almost as beautiful as the sunrise that inspired it. After freezing, I write this post from gorgeous weather near the border of Thailand and Laos where it is finally warm enough to wear shorts and I am proudly sporting this multicolored badge of honor on my left leg.

Though I absolutely could have died, I didn’t. I’m alive. Lucky to be alive. And as Noam said- lucky to have seen a view that fulfills one of those moments you hope you have before it’s too late to appreciate them.

A Review | Pashu Pati, Nepal

Janelle K. Eagle — Mon, 27 Dec 2010 15:00:46 +0000

Gorgeous carved temple structures at Pashu Pati, Nepal

Americans have an unfortunate way of dealing with death, in my opinion. We fight its arrival and are subsequently unprepared and incredibly burdened when the day arrives to depart our bodies. Many of us have varying religious beliefs that dictate how we respond to the passing of a loved one… but I have never seen a culture more beautifully respond to death than the Nepalese.

Outside Kathmandu, on the banks of a small river and an enclave of carved temples is a place called “Pashu Pati.” It is here that the Hindu people of Nepal come to bid their loved ones “namaste”. Just before someone departs this earth, the family gathers in hospice beds along the riverbank and prays and coddles the soon to be departed. Once death has rested the soul of their loved one, the family begins a slow and loving process of preparing the body for cremation.

When visiting the banks of this river, a visitor is privileged to witness the love and care that the Nepalese give to those they love. Only those in mourning and of the Hindu religion are on the side of the river where the cremations take place and all others are invited to watch and visit from across the small riverbank.

A woman pays her respects to a dignitary

From the viewing side, you can see that the bodies are painstakingly prepared for their greatest journey by being bathed, covered in mala (flowers) and tika (dye for blessings). Draped in silk from head to toe, the families and friends of the dearly departed each take a turn bestowing blessings and thanks upon the body of the deceased before it is lovingly placed atop wood and lit aflame.

There are some difficult realities to face when visiting this special place. The initial realization that the smoke in the air is ash of human bodies never gets easier. Make sure to bring masks to avoid breathing in more than the lungs have bargained for. The awkwardness of feeling that you are present at someone else’s funeral is also worth being acknowledged. Match that with the unfortunate reality that this sacred place has become a tourist attraction and get ready to be accosted by women selling necklaces and children begging you to take their photos for the price of a couple rupees. The river is not very clean and the unfortunate truth that the richer the deceased, the farther up the river they are cremated doesn’t always sit well. Even in death there is a separation between the rich and the poor.

A Sadhu

The most heinous and unfortunate spectacles are the supposedly sacred Sadhu or holy men that walk the banks of the river. Infamously unclothed and covered in paint and dreadlocks, these “sacred” figures have even graced the cover of Lonely Planet guides to Nepal. Alas, when you realize these “holy” figures have taken a vow of poverty but will happily pose for you in a picture for a fee, you wonder what they spend their money on and just how seriously that vow of poverty is.

After taking your pictures and swallowing the somberness of the space, I encourage you to remember how beautiful the moment is for those individuals on the other side of the river. Their dearly departed are surrounded by love. The bodies are literally covered in respect and praise and the community surrounding the ceremony ensures that the soul departing is never alone. I think Pashu Pati is absolutely beautiful and well worth the 500 rupees (approx. US$7) that it will cost you to visit.

Below in the comments section, I’m curious- how do you think you would feel visiting a place like this? How does your faith tradition differ from the Hindu people of Nepal?

Through the Looking Glass

Janelle K. Eagle — Thu, 23 Dec 2010 11:19:58 +0000

Mina looks on as I film, courtesy Heartbeats

When your job is to look through a lens, it’s obvious that there is something between you and your subject. Be it a small piece of glass or the entire body of a camera, I am often aware of how distant a small machine makes me feel from that which I am attempting to capture.

In some cases, I enjoy this distance as it allows me to avoid facing truth. In the case of poverty, I am especially well-trained at maintaining a professional distance from the faces on the other side of the lens. If I spend too much time thinking about the stories and the pain that exist, my all-encompassing sense of empathy would prevent me from getting the job done. Such is the life of a documentarian.

For the first time in my memory, I had to walk away from the camera this week. After spending 7 days filming the beautiful children that participated in the Heartbeats Foundation Music Center program that is the subject of my current documentary, I was apparently in complete denial. I could look through the lens of my video camera and lovingly capture the moving images of these beautiful children without hesitation.

When it came time for the members of the Heartbeats group to leave yesterday, it all changed. The children had been inspired by music and were deeply saddened at the news that their new friends from America were going to leave. We expected tears, but I personally did not expect Mina.

Helen & Mina, photo courtesy Heartbeats Foundation

She had been extremely quiet during the week’s activities. She participated in a group, but always sat in the back and sang or played with trepidation and a lack of confidence. You can imagine my surprise when she came up to window of the Music Center and lovingly and quietly cried in the eyes and arms of Heartbeats founder, Helen Nightengale. She lingered in Helen’s embrace in a way that none of us expected her to be open to.

I happened to be pointing my camera in that same direction but when I had adjusted my settings and pressed record and then looked into the lens, I had to walk away. I simply could not distant myself any longer.

My dear and amazing colleague Noam stepped in for me, the cameras kept rolling, and I went into a corner and sobbed. The unfortunate repercussion of the lens preventing me from seeing the truth was that I was very suddenly struck with just how profound the week’s activities were. How massive an impact Heartbeats had made in just a short time. I was literally overwhelmed with emotion and had to step outside my professional self and allow my true and emotional self the opportunity to see with my own eyes.

I am so privileged to meet these children. To inspire them and be inspired in return. I will never know their truth, and no matter how fantastic a filmmaker I set out to be, I know that my lens will never be able to convey just how special they are. It is only with my heart and my eyes that I can truly experience their magic.

I hope that what my lens captures will be enough to have you all know that there are a group of kids that exist on the other side of the world that are so full of love and music that no lens will ever be able to show you. Please just take my word and know that I am grateful for the opportunity I have been given by Heartbeats to witness their magic with my own eyes.

Namaste from Nepal

Janelle K. Eagle — Sat, 18 Dec 2010 15:01:18 +0000

There is something about this place… the smell of incense mixed with ancient dust, the stares that turn into smiles with the greeting of “Namaste,” the way the children seek knowledge as though nothing more could bring them happiness… I’m not sure, but it is magic.

Returning to a country that I love so much has been more than fulfilling for me. I wake up, look out a window and see prayer flags flying in the breeze. I spend my days with camera in hand and attempt to capture the stories of children who’s lives inspire me. By night I watch the sunset reflect off the snow-white Himalayas and breathe in the honor that has been bestowed on me to witness all of this.

It is not always easy to do this work. Within 24 hours of my arrival I was gravely ill and lost a night of sleep to the dreaded Delhi Belly sickness. Our gear is constantly in use and thus constantly in need of recharging, but the inconstant and pouty electrical system refuses to keep us charged. Our equipment is not as reliable as it is when plugged in at home with a Best Buy nearby in case of technical difficulties. I had to ask my colleague tonight to remind me that I love the challenge. And I do.

What I am incapable of putting into words is how much this means to me to be here. I was accidentally introduced to Nepal just over one year ago and to be here again supporting the children of this country feels both overwhelming and dreamlike. To be tasked with the responsibility of capturing the images and feeling of a country and a people that are so giving, so open, and so inspirational is often lost on me. I know it is impossible to truly “get” just how amazing it is, so I have to trust that what I bring to your eyes is in itself worthwhile. I wish you all could be here with me to witness it with your own lens.

In the meantime, I gift to you some of the images that my lens has captured:

New Trailer

Janelle K. Eagle — Tue, 14 Dec 2010 00:22:47 +0000

We’ve been working hard to get an updated trailer out and raise awareness about the film that we have been working on. Alas, with the wonderful help of a dear friend, Noam Karl, we have a new trailer that tells more of the story of the girls that we are going to Nepal to be with!

On the Road Again

Janelle K. Eagle — Sat, 11 Dec 2010 02:07:07 +0000

My Nepali sister, Rupali

I can’t believe I’m even typing this, but I am headed back to one of my favorite places on the planet Earth: Nepal. When I visited there last year, I told my new friends I hoped to visit them again soon. Little did I know that just 13 months later, I am about to board a plane and visit them. And even better? My dear friend Noam and I will continue for a couple weeks afterward in Southeast Asia (theoretically visiting Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos). Shortly thereafter, I will head back to Los Angeles long enough to do laundry and repack my bags to go to Israel for a few weeks in February.

The logistics of planning this trip have been strenuous. Somehow, with the help of a little floating, I found a subletter and someone to rent my car. I’ve arranged all my projects to be able to let me depart for a few months, and I’ve said the majority of my “goodbyes” and “happy new year!” to my loved ones. In three days, I’ll be back on a plane. I’m still not sure it’s hit me.

This last year has been one of the most challenging in my life. I’ve gone through some amazing and extremely surprising shifts in my personal and professional life. I’ve often said in the past few weeks that I will look back at this time of my life and say “those were the best years.” Recently, I’ve decided that I want to be consciously feeling every step of the way instead of only realizing it in retrospect when I’m older. Leave it to a trip to Nepal to keep things in perspective.

I will be posting infrequently on this website and will haphazardly have access to facebook and email. Please feel free to contact me in your leisure and of COURSE let me know if there are particular pieces you are interested in learning more about. I feel honored to be taking you along on this particular Journey with Janelle.

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VIDEO: The Unatti Girls

Janelle K. Eagle — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 02:15:00 +0000

This video is also featured in my recent post entitled “Livin’ the Dream.” In this post, however, I’d like to introduce my readers to the subject of the documentary that my colleague, Patty Ramsey and I are creating.

I’ve been talking about the film for over a year now and through multiple attempts at explanation and the questions resulting from my various versions, I’ve narrowed down the “tagline” of the film, if you will:

“A commentary on the concept of family told through the story of thirteen orphan girls in Nepal.”

We came up with this concept as we realized immediately upon landing in the East that the definition of family was different in Nepal. In this magical land nestled in the Himalayas, everyone is a brother (bhai) or sister (didi), and this is not because of large family size. Each resident or guest is related whether by blood or spirit to one another.

In a home full of girls that have been abandoned or whom have family members that can’t care for them, the words mother and father are even more fuzzy in definition. Instead, they resort to uncle Ramesh who runs the home, though he is often one of the only adult male figures these young girls interact with on a daily basis. The girls’ ability to adapt and free themselves of the burden (and unfortunately also the privilege) of having blood lines to rely on provides them the unique ability to treat everyone as equal.

When Patty and I return to Nepal in two months, we’ll be digging deeper into each girl’s personal story of triumph and how the people around them (their self-declared family) has helped them persevere. We’ll also be breaking ground and beginning further visioning of a new home that will fit even more children in need of family. It’s an incredibly (and unexpected) turn of events for the girls and for our film and will definitely be crucial to filling out the narrative.

Here are some sneak peaks at the girls and the small fiefdom of Bhaktapur, Nepal:

Livin’ the Dream

Janelle K. Eagle — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 00:15:17 +0000

Off The Path Productions in Nepal

Being that I just turned 27 whole years old (officially in my late 20′s!), a couple of things have shifted suddenly. My health insurance went up an additional $55 a month, for one. The second, is that I think people are starting to believe me when I tell them I am a documentary filmmaker. More importantly, I am starting to believe it myself.

When I set out to create this blog more than two years ago, I was experiencing the repercussions of my first big leap of faith after joining the world of starving artistry. I was 25 years old , had just left my first big-girl job, and was hoping to travel the world and gain life experience. Ever the virgo, I created my “Life To Do List” in the hopes of having a guide for at least the first five years of this transitional time in my life.

Two years and over 30% of the Life To Do List completed, and I am more sure than ever that taking the leap of faith was more than worth it. I have traveled around the world, had my work featured on important travel sites like LonelyPlanet.com and have started to get paid to edit travel videos, behind the scenes featurettes, and documentary films. It’s working!

Very recently, I had a dream meeting with an incredible woman who is inspired by the children of the country of Nepal. As you may know, I traveled there with my best friend to begin filming my first feature documentary about the incredible children of the Unatti Foundation. This woman has decided to bring us along with her and her team as they bring music to the children of Nepal. My best friend and I will be documenting their efforts on the ground and then will be staying to continue working on our own documentary. We leave on December 13th of this year. This is a dream come true!

While I’ve got a ton of work to do and multiple opportunities in the pipeline, my Co-Producer Patty and I still have to pinch ourselves. It took us a very long time to get here and many dollars of investment and the energy and support of so many individuals. And even when I pushed my brand new business card across the table which says “Janelle K. Eagle, Off the Path Productions,” I am still baffled that someone else takes us as seriously as we are asking them to. After all, I wouldn’t even have had the business card unless I had written it down (#10 on the Life To Do List!).

There will be much more content coming to this site in the next couple weeks and months so I hope you will stay tuned. If you’d like a sneak peak at what we’ll be experiencing, check out this video I created for some brownie troops in Los Angeles (yeah, you read that correctly):

Funny Signs

Janelle K. Eagle — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 22:01:52 +0000

As I traveled the world this past Winter, I was often amused at how cultural differences also contribute to some HILARIOUS moments where posted signs mean different things to different cultures. I just re-discovered some of my pictures from the trip and thought I’d share:

As a member of the LGBT community, I found it shocking when I saw this sign… and then remembered that my own Irish Aunt calls cigarettes by the same name. Can’t believe the proud display!

I’m still not sure what “Chulo” is in Nepali… but I do know that if a Mexican traveler were in town, they’d get a kick out of this.

What cracked me up about this sign was the lack of certainty… PROBABLY?

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Starting the Photo of the Week series!

Janelle K. Eagle — Tue, 19 Jan 2010 23:09:28 +0000

As I’ve traveled around the world, I’ve seen some amazing people and sites. I’d love to share them with you in a weekly series where I’ll feature a photo and share the story that went along with the capture!

To start it off, feast your eyes on this:

In the small fifedom of Bhaktapur, Nepal, there are two large festivals a year. At this particular festival, young girls dress in traditional Newari outfits and go from doorpost to doorpost singing and dancing. In return, they receive a few rupees that they can then use to buy chocolate or any other treat.

These young girls are in the town center awaiting sunset- when they can begin to sing and dance. One girl blows a bubble as a friend hangs by watching the hustle and bustle of festival preparations.

Photographically, I enjoy that the bubblegum girl is in focus while the rest of her environment seems to literally swirl around her. The candid capture of the innocent friendship of these young girls is touching.