As I traveled the world this past Winter, I was often amused at how cultural differences also contribute to some HILARIOUS moments where posted signs mean different things to different cultures. I just re-discovered some of my pictures from the trip and thought I’d share:

As a member of the LGBT community, I found it shocking when I saw this sign… and then remembered that my own Irish Aunt calls cigarettes by the same name. Can’t believe the proud display!

I’m still not sure what “Chulo” is in Nepali… but I do know that if a Mexican traveler were in town, they’d get a kick out of this.

What cracked me up about this sign was the lack of certainty… PROBABLY?

No related posts.

As I’ve traveled around the world, I’ve seen some amazing people and sites. I’d love to share them with you in a weekly series where I’ll feature a photo and share the story that went along with the capture!

To start it off, feast your eyes on this:

In the small fifedom of Bhaktapur, Nepal, there are two large festivals a year. At this particular festival, young girls dress in traditional Newari outfits and go from doorpost to doorpost singing and dancing. In return, they receive a few rupees that they can then use to buy chocolate or any other treat.

These young girls are in the town center awaiting sunset- when they can begin to sing and dance. One girl blows a bubble as a friend hangs by watching the hustle and bustle of festival preparations.

Photographically, I enjoy that the bubblegum girl is in focus while the rest of her environment seems to literally swirl around her. The candid capture of the innocent friendship of these young girls is touching.

Related posts:

1. Photo of the Week 1/26/10
2. Photo of the Week 2/2/10
3. Photo of the Week 2/9/10

It has been difficult to express to people how beautiful I think the country of Nepal is. The land and the beautiful people are indescribable to me. I’ve attempted to share with my words just how wonderful I think this magical place is, and though even this does not capture it- I want to share some of the best views.

I’ve created a new “Journey with Janelle” video- this one without words. Set to music that could easily be heard playing in the streets of Bhaktapur, these images were shot during October 2009 in multiple cities in Nepal.

I hope this video inspires you to pay attention to this exciting region of the world and to continue to stay involved with my own work in the region.

Namaste!

Related posts:

1. Hope Remixed
2. Leaving Nepal
3. While Traveling In… Nepal

Still Water at sunset on Phewa Lake in Phokara

Phokara is the Beach city of Nepal. Except the “beach” is actually the banks of the very small Phewa Lake. The energy and enthusiasm for tourists and relaxation, however is tangible and reminiscent of any California beachside community. Small shops with handpainted signs, every kind of restaurant you’d want, water sports, and paragliding.

Yes. Paragliding. This is the sport where you run off a hill with a parachute tied to your body and fly around with the birds for a bit before landing at the base of the hill. In Phokara, this sport is extremely popular and many different offices along the main walking drag will advertise packages. In each, you’ll be flying tandem with a professional who knows what he or she is doing- and in most cases is not Nepali, but an enthusiast from another country who came to Nepal because the paragliding options are spectacular near the Himalayas.

Ramesh Paraglides high above Phewa Lake in Phokara

Other extreme sports are also very popular- trekking, rafting, boating, etc. I recommend making arrangements through your guest house or hostel as they usually have a company that they trust and get special deals through. The prices are usually fixed, however, so the normal bartering skills you’ve developed will not apply here.

This small city is particularly great if you are a happy window shopper. The numerous stalls along the lakeside have some great artistry- tonka paintings, tibetan rugs, handmade paper goods, etc. Most shops are open late, so feel free to walk to dinner from your hostel and get a bit lost on your way back as you peruse the goods.

One of the most charming (and surprising) entertainment options in this small town is the evening music that is available. Cover bands belt out the latest tunes, karaoke bars crank out the drunken melodies, and independent artists and travelers host open mic nights in the lobbies of guest homes. Once again, walking down the street and simply finding the bar or spot that feels right is the way to go.

Fresh fruit for sale on the roadside in Phokara

If busy and congested Kathmandu seems overwhelming and you are looking for a great spot that feels like having a vacation within your vacation, Phokara is definitely the spot for you. We sat on the roof of our guest house one night, drinking a beer with our friend Ramesh, and remarked on just how quiet and peaceful the area really is.

Phokara is also fun to get to. Whether you board the pond-hopper plane that gets you there in 30 minutes or the train that can take you anywhere from 4-6 hours, you have gorgeous views the entire way. Relaxing and definitely affordable, Phokara is a great stop while traveling through Nepal.

Related posts:

1. Opening up to Nepal
2. Mornings in Nepal
3. Leaving Nepal

Teenages play with cellphones while sitting in Durbar Square

By far, my favorite place to travel in Nepal is the small fifedom of Bhaktapur. This ancient and walled town is just 20 km away from Kathmandu, but lacks the congestion and pollution. Instead, you get Durbar Square, cobblestone streets, a great view of the mountains on a clear day, and no cars.

The reason that there are no cars is that the small town is actually closed to outside traffic. This means that the only methods of transportation are walking and motorbike. It is very small and very walkable. You will sometimes see a taxi or tractor driving through, but the only traffic you’ll experience is foot traffic. Considering that most roads in Nepal are shared by cars, buses, motorbikes, dogs, cows, and pedestrians… the lack of automobiles is a rare treat- as is the resulting lighter pollution.

One of the famous landmarks in Bhaktapur is the highest Pagoda in the world (Nyatapola Temple)- with five individual tiers. Durbar Square and the palaces and temples in the area are also ancient and beautiful (bring a guide book or pay one of the children asking to be your tour guide some rupees to give you the details).

The same buildings have been in the area for centuries and even if you buy property or want to build onto a house, you have to do so in the ancient style that keeps the town feeling unified in its appreciation of history. This renders much of the architecture to be unfriendly towards the physically disabled, but nonetheless breathtaking in its stone and wood carving work- much of which is done openly as you walk through the small storefronts.

Patty and I sit in Bhaktapur with Durbar Square in the background

I loved Bhaktapur because of the people that live there. More than 50% of the people living there are Newari and come from ancient family lines. They speak a different language and by default come with a culture in which they encourage you to slow down and eat a meal with your neighbor. In fact, they LOVE feeding each other… and you. They seem to show love by forcing others to eat yet another buffalo momo (dumpling) or another small glass of rhaxsi (rice wine).

In theory, there isn’t much to do in Bhaktapur- but it’s near everywhere you want to be. Nearby Ngarkot is a great view for a sunrise, and the town is the same distance from the airport as downtown Kathmandu and offers much of the same goods you’d want to buy. The difference is, you’ll be more comfortable in Bhaktapur.

Rather than staying in Thamel (Kathmandu) or Lazimpat, get a room in a guest house in Bhaktapur. Our home away from home was the Pagoda Guest House and cost a whopping $9/night and also had a rooftop cafe that had the most gorgeous view of the Pagoda and surrounding hills and mountains that you could imagine. The staff was amazing and really became our second family while we stayed in town for a couple weeks (shout out to Sharmila and Robindra!).

I never expected to feel as comfortable or welcome as I did in Bhaktapur, Nepal. I know from the many other travelers we met on the road that this was not a unique experience. Stop by this enchanted town if you’re ever in the area. It’s well worth the detour.

Related posts:

1. Day 2 in Nepal: Child to Child
2. Mornings in Nepal
3. Leaving Nepal

Patty films while Nepalese schoolchildren look on

While Traveling in… Nepal

There are a couple of things you should know:

1. If you are white, you will be stared at. The people of Nepal are curious about you, so simply put your hands together and offer “Namaste” and a smile.

2. Any time you pull out a camera, others (especially children) will crowd around you to see your display screen. It’s a rare treat for them, share your images!

3. If you are approached by a child and asked to take their photo, note that they will probably follow up by asking you to give them a few rupees. They learn this at a very young age.

4. If a child asks you to buy them a book, say no. Unfortunately, they’ve struck up an agreement with the bookstore to sell it back and split the profits after you walk away. The same is true with mothers asking you to purchase evaporated milk.

5. Nepalese people take great pride in their language and will enjoy trying to teach you new words. Do your best to learn key phrases and you’ll make many a friend.

A disheveled transit vehicle in Nepal

6. As in most third world countries, it is important to drink only bottled water, eat only fruits with skin (i.e. an orange or banana), and make sure that milk is thoroughly boiled before you drink it.

7. Bartering is a very common practice. Assume that whatever price they offer you is twice what it should be. The best thing to do is verbalize that you know this is a bad price and to immediately walk way. They’ll call after you with a much lower price. Practice this skill- it’s worth all the money you’ll save!

8. At the airport, men will offer to help you with your bags. If you want the help, be prepared to pay for it. Make sure that you only let one man help you as multiple will try to get in on the action and get paid for it. If you can do it on your own, I recommend politely telling the men that you don’t need help.

Eating on the floor in Nepal

9. Ask your hostel or hotel staff how much a taxi ride should cost to get to a destination. When you find a taxi, pre-determine your price. They will ask you for much higher than what it should cost- here is where bartering comes in (see #7). Driving at night or during high traffic will cost you more.

10. Common dishes are comprised of lentils (dal) and rice (bhat). It is appropriate to eat with your right hand and no utensils. If you need one, ask for a fork. If eating at a restaurant, you’ll probably be provided one.

11. Nepali people are very calm and don’t rush like Westerners. It is common to hear them say “Bistari” (slow) and to encourage you to do the same. Embrace this ideology while traveling in Nepal and the experience will be well worth it.

Related posts:

1. Day 2 in Nepal: Child to Child
2. Opening up to Nepal
3. Leaving Nepal

A gorgeous portrait taken in Bhaktapur, Nepal

During the last few days of our time in Bhaktapur, we sat down to interview Ramesh for our documentary film. In his small office at the back of his ancient house, we asked him many questions about his life, his family, his job, and his country. Though we had already spent so much time with him, we learned even more about this man we now call “Bhai” or brother.

We learned that when Stephanie from the Unatti Foundation originally offered him the job of running the orphanage, that he was not interested. He had gone to business school, he was in his mid twenties- unmarried and without children. The position just wasn’t appealing. That is, until he met the girls from the Unatti home. And in his own words, “they attached to his heart.”

I feel the same way about Nepal and these people. They have consumed my love and have taken it wholeheartedly, immediately reciprocating with hugs and kisses and namaste. Leaving this country and specifically, the Unatti family (and their extensions at the Pagoda House) was beyond difficult.

What I am grateful for is that I have a new favorite city in the world, Bhaktapur. I have been challenged and supported in a way that I never could have imagined while in Nepal. I made friendships in one month that I feel are stronger than some I have back home in the USA. Unapologetically close and loving friendships.

The kindhearted smile of Unatti's leader, Ramesh

I am so happy that Patty was here on the journey with me. Having someone else to talk to about these feelings seems like explaining the unexplainable. Now when we travel in India, we barely have to speak and we know how much we miss our Unatti family. We understand and celebrate the memories as often as possible.

I will come back to Nepal. There is no doubt in my mind. I will cherish seeing the faces of these girls as the film we envisioned comes to fruition. We will relive the memories and apply the lessons we learned as often as possible.

Goodbye, my darling Nepal. I miss you already.

Related posts:

1. Day 2 in Nepal: Child to Child
2. Opening up to Nepal
3. Mornings in Nepal

With Tika on our foreheads, we can't help but smile

Travel affords ample time to be introspective. It is perhaps the reason that many people succumb to their wanderlust. To give themselves permission to indulge in the conversations that are usually pushed aside by a Vanilla Latte, briefcase, and the subway. I’ve learned much about myself as a traveler. One of the introspective conversations I’ve been having with myself while on this particular trip has been about being “Adventure” and the concept of having “boundaries.”

I very much long to be someone who is perceived as adventurous. Working in the travel industry or entertainment, you have to be. You get on the Amazing Race by being willing to eat a bug. Application videos for travel competitions underline the importance of a candidate being willing to try anything. If I want to do this as a career, I’ve got to do it all.

It has therefore been rather alarming to have two very different occasions help me to learn the difficult lesson that I do, in fact, have limitations to my sense of adventure.

The first seems so silly in retrospect. There are decorative wall hangings available in many stores here in Bhaktapur. They sparkle and glow with vibrant colors and patterns. After salivating over them for the past couple of weeks, Patty and I each decided to indulge and buy ourselves a present.

I entered the shop with an idea of what I wanted; I pictured my standard earth tone color scheme- brown, brick, copper. When I emerged 40 minutes later with a bright green wall hanging, I told myself I was being adventurous. I wanted to challenge myself to buy something that was unusual for me. But it didn’t sit right. I literally squirmed over the decision for at least two days.

Why was this bugging me so much? We’re talking about a piece of art, here. While only mildly expensive (US $50), it was the internal struggle that alarmed me. Could this fabric be indicative of a larger issue? Was I too narrow-minded? Did I only go with what I knew would fit? Shouldn’t I also be able to be a “green” person?

Alas 48 hours later, I returned to the store and exchanged for a wall hanging that fit. I immediately felt a sense of relief; this is going into my home and I love it. I can’t wait to hang it proudly on my walls. If I had purchased the green one, I fear it would have remained in a packing tube under my bed. Plus, having had the two day struggle involved, the art piece has an even bigger story behind it.

I was sitting with this revelation when the second circumstance to challenge my internal dare-devil presented itself. Patty and I were invited to attend a sheep sacrifice. It was just Diwali here in Nepal, and offerings are made to the gods. There are many ceremonies and rituals that take place, including animal sacrifice.

We cautiously agreed to attend the sacrifice ceremony the following morning. It would make great footage after all. We’d be able to say we’d done it. Cross it off the list. At least that’s what I told myself.

But the more I thought about it, I remembered my high school grad trip to Europe when my friends and I purchased tickets to a bullfight in Barcelona. It was barbaric and stirred our stomachs for hours afterward. There was nothing pleasant about the experience, regardless of whether I could cross it off the list.

I bravely confessed my trepidation to Patty. Attending a sacrifice was not something I was comfortable with. In fact I was terrifed. I had already seen an animal die as part of a cultural celebration. I had already crossed this off my list.

Again, did this mean I wasn’t adventurous? Brave? Did it make me weak? These questions bombarded me, but I stuck with my instincts. This wasn’t for me.

In retrospect, I don’t regret returning the wall hanging and not participating in the sheep sacrifice. Traveling, at least in my current state, is still a leisure activity. I get to choose the best and worst parts of my experience and share them with my audience, make recommendations, and encourage them to live their own journey.

After all, I am brave and adventurous in other ways. During the first three weeks of this trip alone, being a girl who rarely eats red meat, I’ve eaten buffalo and mutton. In fact, I even ate buffalo intestine as part of one of these sacred ceremonies. In that same ceremony, I bit the head off and ate a dried fish. I rode 20 kilometers on a speeding motorcycle without a helmet to get a good shot of Kathmandu traffic. I’ve filmed, photographed, and written about it all… I have nothing to be ashamed of.

I just have boundaries. I get tested and I have to remember to allow myself to be human. To remain proud of my joie de vivre spirit, while simultaneously declining an invitation on a very rare circumstance. I have to give myself permission to have preferences.

I believe what sets me apart as a travel guide is that I am willing to share all parts of a journey like this. The decisions I make… and why. The places I go… and how they made me feel.

Next week on Journey with Janelle, I am paragliding off the Himalayas. Though I may have boundaries, you can still call me Adventurous..

Related posts:

1. Starting the Big Journey
2. Day 2 in Nepal: Child to Child
3. Opening up to Nepal

I'm a sucker for a puppy face

There are many street dogs running through the cobblestone alleyways of Bhaktapur. They sunbathe on the steps of grand pagodas, rummage through trash piles, and expertly maneuver through traffic. Humans don’t pay them much attention, and it seems the same is true in reverse.

On the first day of Tihar, the opposite is true. Early in the morning, the dogs have a little extra bounce in their step. Everyone who passes by seems to be smiling at them. They are getting an extra scratch behind the ears. This is because it is Kukur Puja (or dog worshiping day). Relevant, because some of the first words I learned to say in Nepali were “Kukur” for “dog” and “Kukur Ko Batcha” for “puppy.”

A puppy starts teething with a shoelace

As an American, and specifically one that lives in Los Angeles, I am used to dogs being treated like gods. There are luxury retailers catering to rich clientele who adorn their proud pooches with diamond collars and green tea dog treats. It’s a cliché that I would fight, except that my own two pups happen to be extremely spoiled. Sassy and Stanley are well-loved to say the least. And yes, I’ve bought them clothing.

In Nepal, however, dogs are still dogs. Some are pets, but most are street dogs that happen to be friendly neighbors. For instance, the Unatti Girls care for a dog named Lucie. She walks them to school, greets them at the gate when they return, and announces any surprise visitors. She recently had a puppy named Leslie who now has 13 girls fawning over her every move. These dogs aren’t officially pets, but they’ve been adopted.

Yes. This was a real puppy that really made that face.

Next to the Unatti Home, a street dog also recently had puppies. In the most non-politically-correct way, the girls have dubbed them “brownie” and “blackie” (based on the color of each of their coats). At the Pagoda Guest House where Patty and I currently reside, the owners have two dogs whom we adore. Because our room is on the same floor as their personal residence, we hang with the dogs (Munu and Moti) a bunch.

This means that in only a few short weeks in Nepal, we’ve become close to seven dogs. Not surprising, in my opinion, considering the depth with which I love the little devils. Moti even jumped onto my lap while the fireworks were going off because she knew I was a sucker and would give her all the love and protection her little doggie heart desired.

No dog bed? No problem! How about a spare time?

You can imagine our enthusiasm for a holiday devoted to giving these dogs nothing but love. The “Tika” that we were so excited to receive when we first arrived was now reserved solely for the pooches. The flower necklaces called “mala” were briefly draped around each dog’s neck until they managed to shake or pull them off (except Moti who proudly displayed hers for two days). All around Bhaktapur, the dogs we live with harmoniously were now elevated to the level my dogs have always known they were at… teeny tiny creatures full of godliness.

Best. Holiday. Ever.

Related posts:

1. Little Sister
2. Day 2 in Nepal: Child to Child
3. Mornings in Nepal

I will continue to update this set as I upload and edit more pictures. It seems impossible to take a bad picture while traveling here in Nepal. The eyes of these people tell stories I can only imagine.

For a direct link to these pictures, click HERE

Related posts:

1. While Traveling In… Nepal
2. N. Carolina Photography
3. Day 2 in Nepal: Child to Child