I myself have written about sunrises in the past, most recently when I was in Cambodia. Recently, I returned to a place where I’ve seen the sun rise before: Masada in the land of Israel. Directly from Wikipedia, we read:

Masada is the name for a site of ancient palaces and fortifications in the South District of Israel on top of an isolated rock plateau, or horst, on the eastern edge of the Judean Desert overlooking the Dead Sea.

Though I’d been there before (more than a decade ago), I did not remember that the sun creeped up and reflected elegantly over the waters of the Dead Sea. I didn’t remember that it was warm outside in the middle of the desert at 4am, causing hikers to feel an unusual heat without light. Mostly, I just didn’t remember how beautiful the sunrise truly was. It is definitely the best time of day to ascend- you avoid the heat and can be back down and on the shores of the Dead Sea before breakfast.

Masada, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was used by ancient Kings as their summer getaway. The ruins preserved there are in great condition and the mutual respect that many of the travelers have who visit this sacred place has led to this being a popular but not claustrophobic must-see during a tour of Israel. You can ascend via cable car (easiest), via a short and sweet climb that takes an average hiker about 25 minutes, or via the treacherous Snake Path which winds up one of the steepest edges of the plateau.

There is rich history to be learned while visiting, so it is recommended to hire a guide, bring a travel book, or visit the nearby Museum in order to get a full understanding of this fantastic location. Nearby attractions include the Dead Sea and options to stay overnight at a Bedouin camp.

Bring a camera. Bring lots of water. Bring a hat. Absolutely set your alarm and you’ll agree with me, it was absolutely worth it.

Related posts:

1. A Review| Bhaktapur, Nepal
2. A Review | Pashu Pati, Nepal
3. A Review: Kutná Hora (The Bone Church)

Gorgeous carved temple structures at Pashu Pati, Nepal

Americans have an unfortunate way of dealing with death, in my opinion. We fight its arrival and are subsequently unprepared and incredibly burdened when the day arrives to depart our bodies. Many of us have varying religious beliefs that dictate how we respond to the passing of a loved one… but I have never seen a culture more beautifully respond to death than the Nepalese.

Outside Kathmandu, on the banks of a small river and an enclave of carved temples is a place called “Pashu Pati.” It is here that the Hindu people of Nepal come to bid their loved ones “namaste”. Just before someone departs this earth, the family gathers in hospice beds along the riverbank and prays and coddles the soon to be departed. Once death has rested the soul of their loved one, the family begins a slow and loving process of preparing the body for cremation.

When visiting the banks of this river, a visitor is privileged to witness the love and care that the Nepalese give to those they love. Only those in mourning and of the Hindu religion are on the side of the river where the cremations take place and all others are invited to watch and visit from across the small riverbank.

A woman pays her respects to a dignitary

From the viewing side, you can see that the bodies are painstakingly prepared for their greatest journey by being bathed, covered in mala (flowers) and tika (dye for blessings). Draped in silk from head to toe, the families and friends of the dearly departed each take a turn bestowing blessings and thanks upon the body of the deceased before it is lovingly placed atop wood and lit aflame.

There are some difficult realities to face when visiting this special place. The initial realization that the smoke in the air is ash of human bodies never gets easier. Make sure to bring masks to avoid breathing in more than the lungs have bargained for. The awkwardness of feeling that you are present at someone else’s funeral is also worth being acknowledged. Match that with the unfortunate reality that this sacred place has become a tourist attraction and get ready to be accosted by women selling necklaces and children begging you to take their photos for the price of a couple rupees. The river is not very clean and the unfortunate truth that the richer the deceased, the farther up the river they are cremated doesn’t always sit well. Even in death there is a separation between the rich and the poor.

A Sadhu

The most heinous and unfortunate spectacles are the supposedly sacred Sadhu or holy men that walk the banks of the river. Infamously unclothed and covered in paint and dreadlocks, these “sacred” figures have even graced the cover of Lonely Planet guides to Nepal. Alas, when you realize these “holy” figures have taken a vow of poverty but will happily pose for you in a picture for a fee, you wonder what they spend their money on and just how seriously that vow of poverty is.

After taking your pictures and swallowing the somberness of the space, I encourage you to remember how beautiful the moment is for those individuals on the other side of the river. Their dearly departed are surrounded by love. The bodies are literally covered in respect and praise and the community surrounding the ceremony ensures that the soul departing is never alone. I think Pashu Pati is absolutely beautiful and well worth the 500 rupees (approx. US$7) that it will cost you to visit.

Below in the comments section, I’m curious- how do you think you would feel visiting a place like this? How does your faith tradition differ from the Hindu people of Nepal?

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2. A Review| Bhaktapur, Nepal
3. Mornings in Nepal

The incense spirals at Man Mo Temple

1. From the airport, it is a short 24-minute and super inexpensive train ride into downtown Hong Kong (and a roundtrip day pass is only about HK$160 or US$15). The view from the train is absolutely stunning and in itself a joy.

2. The city is super walkable. Once arriving at Central station, you can literally walk all of Hong Kong without hopping on a single bus or riding in a cab. The train station shows multiple maps that list the walking distance to each of the common tourist attractions, with even the most distant locale being only 20 or so minutes away.

Beef Noodle Soup

3. You will do yourself an injustice if you do not eat while you are in this city. Take an unexpected turn down an alley and look to see where all the locals are running to grab a bit on their way to work. We entered a noodle shop that was hopping with business people and were not disappointed by an incredible beef noodle soup that a generous local helped us order when we realized their was no English on the menu. Anything that has a sticky bun is also worth it- the pork buns (though I don’t eat them) are infamous for a reason.

4. Hong Kong is surrounded by water which means there are ferries and piers that should absolutely be visited. The water is a distinct green-blue which actually reminded me quite a bit of the venetian waters and gondolas I saw last year. Even though it was slightly rainy when we were there, there is a warmth in the fog. The wind is definitely moist and if you’ve got curly hair- you’re better off avoiding a straitening iron that day.

The Hong Kong Bottanical Garden

5. The terrain of the city, with its hosting Tai Mo Shan Country Park mountains, is definitely steep. The metropolitan skyscrapers are earily framed by mystical green and rocky mountains that hide their heads behind the clouds. Make sure to wear good supportive shoes and visit the botanical gardens that scrape the mountainside.

6. Hong Kong does not escape the diversity of the new millenium and in your one day, you can visit Man Mo Temple, an Islamic Mosque, and a Catholic Church. The Man Mo temple is small but impactful, ironically situated on Hollywood Road tucked between two very modern buildings. The incense spirals are stunning and the smell of spice and offerings feels distinctly separate from the bustling city surrounding its ancient walls.

7. Lastly, I was surprised at how affordable Hong Kong is for a tourist. The attractions are not fraught with high-cost entrance fees (even the botannical garden is free!) and the ease of walking and not having to rely on public transportation means that the only expenses incurred in one day are the cost of the train ride and any food and souvenirs. My entire visit was only $25 dollars, but the memories were definitely priceless.

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1. While Traveling In… India
2. While Traveling In… Nepal
3. That one time in India

KIDS
The exhibits are state-of-the-art and extremely interactive. If bringing small children, take them over to the Splash Zone, a hands-on experience equipped with kid-friendly exhibits and complimentary antibacterial hand spray.

All of the various displays are colorful and include great signage and explanations, though it will be important to have a guide (either a parent or teacher) be present for the multitude of questions that small ones will have about this invisible world under the water. If you don’t feel qualified to lead a personal tour, worry not! There are plenty of helpful staff members floating throughout the aquarium and some helpful pamphlets, movies, and public speaking sessions throughout the day to take the pressure off.

A jelly in Monterey

ADULTS
For the mature animal-lover, the highlight has to be the exhibit on Jellyfish (obviously kids will enjoy this one as well). Each tank is superbly constructed to encourage the fish to float effortlessly right in front of your eyes. The beauty and majesty of these flowing creatures is a rare treat and in my opinion, worth the price of admission on its own.

Throughout the experience, you’ll be reminded on a rather constant basis (sometimes annoyingly so) that humans pollute and hurt the underwater ecosystem. If you’re a fish eater, be prepared for a guilt trip you may not be expecting- Disneyland sure doesn’t make you feel bad for eating salmon for dinner. Alas, they also give quite a few useful and easy suggestions about how to be more responsible, and why not stare at some penguins, pink flamingos, and sea turtles while being taught how to be a responsible human?

FINANCES
The price tag is getting up there, I must say. Even a child costs $18 with regular adult admission skirting ever-so-close to $30. The good news is, it’s worth it to cough up the dough, especially when you consider that the admission ticket actually goes to fund much of the environmental programming that the aquarium supports.

If you’ve got some money to spend, I’d highly recommend investing in one of the boutique experiences the staff at the aquarium offer. From diving into the reef exhibit, feeding the otters, sailing with the staff and even a New Year’s Sleepover, there are some awesome opportunities to get up close and personal with out friends in the water.

LOCATION
If you’re coasting up or down the 101 Freeway, take a little detour into Monterey. The surrounding Cannery Row restaurants are rather kitchy and definitely overpriced, but the view of the bay and marshlands feels like a welcome departure from the bustling California metropolises that I’ve come to associate with the Golden State.

Parking can be difficult and pricey, but once again- it’s all worth it.

Related posts:

1. A Review| Bhaktapur, Nepal
2. A Review| Phokara, Nepal
3. A Review: Kutná Hora (The Bone Church)

The Bone Chandelier at Sedlec Ostuary

There is a small town outside of Prague (Czech Republic), reachable by train, called “Kutná Hora.” At one point in its history, this small neighbor competed with Prague economically. Still part of “Bohemia” and now the Czech Republic, this lesser famous town is only worth the visit if you’ve got the time. I certainly wouldn’t recommend missing part of Prague in order to see it.

The main reason to visit this quaint little town is that it has some amazing photo opportunities. In November, which is when I visited, the streets were deserted. It felt like a ghost town, but the absence of humans made the layers of fog and chill seem more crisp and made the glossy streets and multi-colored trees seem like a painting you were magically given permission to walk through.

The site I particularly came to see was the Sedlec Ostuary, called Kostnice Sedlec in Czech. For our part, we call it “The Bone Church.” With an exciting history that includes ties to “Black Death” and thousands of graves, If you’re not freaked out by piles of bones, then this place is a spooky yet fascinating display for you to see.

Church workers infamously constructed piles of bones from the many bodies originally buried in the area as well as a family coat of arms (ironic?) and a chandelier. This leaves the place looking like permanent Halloween art installation.

Just a short walk from the train station you arrive at, you’ll need to ask one of the station staff for a small map to tell you how to get to the Church. It’s about a mile or so walk, with small town charm to feast your eyes on as you stroll. The train to get back to Prague comes every two hours, and since you don’t need a reservation to ride in either direction, you can peruse at your leisure.

If I’m being honest, I will say that the church is much smaller than you think it would be. The information cards they give you (translated into many languages) are not particularly well-written or informative, but give you some context for what you’re looking at. The tell-tale souvenir skulls that you can purchase as well as the “flatten a penny” machines made the church feel less than holy. But the pictures you get… they can’t be beat.

The surrounding graveyard is also rather picturesque as it is quite small and surrounded by fields of colorful trees. I was impressed by the local devotion to making sure that no grave was flowerless or forgotten.

Overall, I enjoyed (but was underwhelmed by) my extremely brief visit to the small town of Kutná Hora. It was a cheap & fast train (about 1 hour & US $20 from Prague), an extremely picturesque view along the way, and a wonderful treat for my camera’s lens when I arrived. I was lucky enough to have plenty of free time, otherwise I would have passed.

To see more pictures from this interesting locale, check out my FlickR page: HERE

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2. A Review| Phokara, Nepal
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Still Water at sunset on Phewa Lake in Phokara

Phokara is the Beach city of Nepal. Except the “beach” is actually the banks of the very small Phewa Lake. The energy and enthusiasm for tourists and relaxation, however is tangible and reminiscent of any California beachside community. Small shops with handpainted signs, every kind of restaurant you’d want, water sports, and paragliding.

Yes. Paragliding. This is the sport where you run off a hill with a parachute tied to your body and fly around with the birds for a bit before landing at the base of the hill. In Phokara, this sport is extremely popular and many different offices along the main walking drag will advertise packages. In each, you’ll be flying tandem with a professional who knows what he or she is doing- and in most cases is not Nepali, but an enthusiast from another country who came to Nepal because the paragliding options are spectacular near the Himalayas.

Ramesh Paraglides high above Phewa Lake in Phokara

Other extreme sports are also very popular- trekking, rafting, boating, etc. I recommend making arrangements through your guest house or hostel as they usually have a company that they trust and get special deals through. The prices are usually fixed, however, so the normal bartering skills you’ve developed will not apply here.

This small city is particularly great if you are a happy window shopper. The numerous stalls along the lakeside have some great artistry- tonka paintings, tibetan rugs, handmade paper goods, etc. Most shops are open late, so feel free to walk to dinner from your hostel and get a bit lost on your way back as you peruse the goods.

One of the most charming (and surprising) entertainment options in this small town is the evening music that is available. Cover bands belt out the latest tunes, karaoke bars crank out the drunken melodies, and independent artists and travelers host open mic nights in the lobbies of guest homes. Once again, walking down the street and simply finding the bar or spot that feels right is the way to go.

Fresh fruit for sale on the roadside in Phokara

If busy and congested Kathmandu seems overwhelming and you are looking for a great spot that feels like having a vacation within your vacation, Phokara is definitely the spot for you. We sat on the roof of our guest house one night, drinking a beer with our friend Ramesh, and remarked on just how quiet and peaceful the area really is.

Phokara is also fun to get to. Whether you board the pond-hopper plane that gets you there in 30 minutes or the train that can take you anywhere from 4-6 hours, you have gorgeous views the entire way. Relaxing and definitely affordable, Phokara is a great stop while traveling through Nepal.

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Teenages play with cellphones while sitting in Durbar Square

By far, my favorite place to travel in Nepal is the small fifedom of Bhaktapur. This ancient and walled town is just 20 km away from Kathmandu, but lacks the congestion and pollution. Instead, you get Durbar Square, cobblestone streets, a great view of the mountains on a clear day, and no cars.

The reason that there are no cars is that the small town is actually closed to outside traffic. This means that the only methods of transportation are walking and motorbike. It is very small and very walkable. You will sometimes see a taxi or tractor driving through, but the only traffic you’ll experience is foot traffic. Considering that most roads in Nepal are shared by cars, buses, motorbikes, dogs, cows, and pedestrians… the lack of automobiles is a rare treat- as is the resulting lighter pollution.

One of the famous landmarks in Bhaktapur is the highest Pagoda in the world (Nyatapola Temple)- with five individual tiers. Durbar Square and the palaces and temples in the area are also ancient and beautiful (bring a guide book or pay one of the children asking to be your tour guide some rupees to give you the details).

The same buildings have been in the area for centuries and even if you buy property or want to build onto a house, you have to do so in the ancient style that keeps the town feeling unified in its appreciation of history. This renders much of the architecture to be unfriendly towards the physically disabled, but nonetheless breathtaking in its stone and wood carving work- much of which is done openly as you walk through the small storefronts.

Patty and I sit in Bhaktapur with Durbar Square in the background

I loved Bhaktapur because of the people that live there. More than 50% of the people living there are Newari and come from ancient family lines. They speak a different language and by default come with a culture in which they encourage you to slow down and eat a meal with your neighbor. In fact, they LOVE feeding each other… and you. They seem to show love by forcing others to eat yet another buffalo momo (dumpling) or another small glass of rhaxsi (rice wine).

In theory, there isn’t much to do in Bhaktapur- but it’s near everywhere you want to be. Nearby Ngarkot is a great view for a sunrise, and the town is the same distance from the airport as downtown Kathmandu and offers much of the same goods you’d want to buy. The difference is, you’ll be more comfortable in Bhaktapur.

Rather than staying in Thamel (Kathmandu) or Lazimpat, get a room in a guest house in Bhaktapur. Our home away from home was the Pagoda Guest House and cost a whopping $9/night and also had a rooftop cafe that had the most gorgeous view of the Pagoda and surrounding hills and mountains that you could imagine. The staff was amazing and really became our second family while we stayed in town for a couple weeks (shout out to Sharmila and Robindra!).

I never expected to feel as comfortable or welcome as I did in Bhaktapur, Nepal. I know from the many other travelers we met on the road that this was not a unique experience. Stop by this enchanted town if you’re ever in the area. It’s well worth the detour.

Related posts:

1. A Review| Phokara, Nepal
2. A Review | Pashu Pati, Nepal
3. A Review: Kutná Hora (The Bone Church)